Patmos Island and St John the Apostle
David Mutlow travels to Patmos and revels in its discovery.
In 95 AD during the reign of the Roman Emperor Domitian the Apostle John (the last living disciple of Christ) was exiled on this Island of Patmos. It was here that St John wrote the book of Revelation.
The Book of Revelations’ depicts St John’s vision of historical events yet to take place. His banishment to the Island was far from comfortable, believed to have been in his late 70’s at least.
He lived in a cave above the Islands capital of Skala as a hermit. Today this cave is one of the most revered locations for all Christians. Not only is it revered as a place where one of the Disciples lived in exile. It’s also a place where God revealed himself to a human being. In theological terms it is an extremely blessed spot. According to our guide and Archaeologist ‘Heinrich Hall’
Just below the Monastery of St John founded by St Christodoulos in 1095 Ad is the Katholikon of the Monastery of the Apocalypse and the location of the Cave of St John. It’s here that the holy evangelist dictated to his disciple ‘Prochoros’ the Book of Revelations.
Listening to our guide a profound reverence is given in the description of the cave itself. “When entering” says our guide Heinrich Hall. “You’ll be struck on how small this cave is. According to belief there is a little niche in the wall where St John laid his head during the night. There’s also a little recess in the wall that was used as a handle when he got up in the morning after all he was a very old man and another hollow that looks like a pulpit where his disciple Prochoros sat taking St John’s dictation.”
The cave is extremely small, no bigger than an average size living room. The granite-like volcanic formation wraps from below our feet into the Cave and flows back above our head within reach of my fingers. Soot from candles long ago can still be seen in the crags in the walls and ceiling. Today a building’s wall doubles the size of the original cave. This is the ‘Katholikon Chapel’. Only a very faint smell of incense is in the air but the atmosphere, the reverence it inspires, is quite humbling. St John’s exile only lasted 2 years on the Island, in 96 AD after the assassination of the Emperor Domitian St John returned to Ephesus to life out the rest of his days.
Above the ‘Katholikon Chapel’ is: The Monastery of St John the Theologian, giving its full title. It is a fortified Monastery founded by St Christodoulos in 1095 Ad at the beginning of the Crusades (1095 –1291). This is when the Byzantine Empire was under attack from the east and the west hence its fortifications. Over time a town developed outside the Monastery walls. Now called Chora mostly for protection its 16th & 17th century style buildings has a striking resemblance to hill towns in Tuscany. Narrow alleyways with the occasional parked scooter outside it’s owners door can be seen yet the similarity ends there, where in Italy the walls are clay brown in Chora brilliant whitewashed walls dazzle us in the sunlight. Cobbled squares in every shade of white with accents of green (vines) and red (bougainvillea) attract the eye.
Inside the Monastery the fresco paintings outside the Chapel of Panayia are a must see. Wall paintings in vivid colours portrays various miracles of St John can be seen with rare depictions of images of the anti-Christ on the walls outside. Inside the Chapel of Panayia (The Virgin) built in the 12th century and the oldest in the Monastery, ornate frescos undiminished over time are everywhere. Rich purples and gold depict the Madonna and child with the Archangels Michael & Gabriel wingless and dressed in military-imperial uniforms either side.
Listening to Heinrich’s revered enthusiasm is infectious “The Monastery has the best medieval library in Europe with 10s of thousands of documents showing the running of the Monastery and its property. Its archives are used to study the Mediterranean economy from the Middle Ages to the present.” says Heinrich Hall. Sadly access to the archive is by written permission however the Monastery Museum displays the most choice pieces in its collection.”
In a courtyard outside the Monastery we sit drinking frappes (cold Instant coffee) our glass-bottled water advertises ‘Water from Central Greece’ with a marine scene by Alison Reid. We are high amongst the gardens of Chora, our platform shaded by bamboo. To my right silver/green olive branches and eucalyptus trees drape over our balcony Carob trees planted century ago its fruits used for cattle hang within reach of my hands. Fig trees with fleshy leaves and cactus plants with their prickly pears are all around our garden in the trees.
Returning to our boat whilst walking through the port of Skala we are stopped by Heinrich. “This spot marks the location where St John baptised his followers” a small brass plaque purched on a ring of ornate iron fence protects the remains of the original quayside.
Getting there…
David Mutlow travelled with ‘Peter Sommer Travels’ on their North Dodecanese Archaeological tour for seven days visiting Patmos, Samos, Leros, Kos and Halicarnassus (Bodrum) the site of the Mausoleum. One of the seven wonders of the ancient world.
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Tags: Archaeology, Patmos
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