Idyllic Kioni, Ithaca
“Kioni is a gem: an amphitheatre of houses built around the steep slopes of a bay” according to Rod Heikell (Ionian Cruising Companion for sailors) “with olive groves and the odd cypress tree surrounding the deep blue habour itself.”
We sailed into Kioni yesterday mid-morning expecting crowds of flotilla yachts, super yachts and various other day boats competing to find the remaining anchorages in this small little harbour by the sea. Yet on our arrival there were no crowds to be seen. Serine in its waterside location Kioni looked un-spoilt by the reputation that had preceded it. Kioni ‘according to those that had visited by yacht’ was too crowded; with no room to safely moor yachts. It seamed Kioni had become a victim of its success. Yet here we are in a beautiful setting sheltering from the August sun sipping our ice frappes in the shade of Mentor Restaurant.
Looking around, Kioni has shown considerable restraint with the facilities it provides. It’s resisted the inevitable development that’s turned other picturesque harbours into gaudy commercial enterprises. The town quay has its own resident section for local caciques to moor in the shallows (unusable for yachts) and tastefully decorated the far side of the quay with bathing platforms with deep water mooring facilities that was once dangerous rock outcrops. The town quay proper is where you will find most of the visiting yachts of 25ft to 55ft in length.
Most village inlets around Greece have their own share of Taverna’s and Kioni is no different. Yet here in Kioni there is a select quality about all the tourist enterprises that operate within this harbour. Bespoke had made jewellery and gift shops are interspersed with Café watering holes and fish taverna’s. Calipso Taverna Bar on the water front has the best location in the harbour and caught our eye for this evening.
Tucked behind the waterfront is Café Spavento its blue little chairs, wooden little tables and hand painted signs is where the locals go. It’s a good place to pick up local business cards that are left there for business.
Here some of the card we picked up…
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Tags: anchorages, frappes, Ithaca, kioni, olive groves, picturesque harbours, town quay
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