An evening at Hiliomodi Fish Restaurant — Patmos
There are no other tavernas in view, no discotheques, no bars or the sound of bouzouki music. Patmos shows considerable restraint when mixing the trappings of tourism with this most holy of Islands.
Looking up from our rooftop Taverna. The Monastery of St John the theologian (named after St John the last living Apostle of Christ) can be easily seen overlooking the town of Skala. Its courtyard lights provide accents of colour across its darkened walls.
Travelling on an architectural tour by Peter Sommer Travels we’d arrived in Patmos in the late afternoon. This was our first meal together (Eleven guests) off our yacht the Turkish Gulet the ‘Almira’ and an opportunity to get to know everyone better. Our tour guide and Archaeologist ‘Heinrich Hall’ had scouted ‘Hiliomodi Fish Restaurant’ as the place to eat, and from our point of view he’d hit the nail on the head.
Looking around local Greek families and friends can be seen frequenting most of the tables. Behind on the walls, fishnets are drape with shells hanging within. In one corner a collage of photographs displayed in a frame, depicts the generations of family that ran this taverna over the years.
From below the odour of spices and lemons permeated the air leaving us ravenous for our meal (Sailing always leaves you hungry). Yet our desire to eat is tempered in traditional Greek style. Food will be ready when its ready and not before. In Greece eating out is a social occasion a gathering of friends and family and an opportunity to catch up on gossip. That’s why there’s no time limit on tables in Greece, you’re expected to stay till closing and socialise.
Hiliomodi Fish Restaurant’ is no different waiting for our meals to arrive and dipping heavily into the mezes. I’m introduced to a drink called Tsipouro (called Raki by the Cretians). Similar in taste to schnapps it’s made from the skins and stems of grapes.
“Tsipouro!” I’m informed by Enrique, one of eleven guests on this cruise, “Gives you fair warning when to stop drinking, its purity allows the body to respond to the alcohol appropriately without it being disguised by additives.” Enrique (from Spain) became our unofficial advisor on all things Mediterranean outside of Greece. A connoisseur of healthy living (We’re told with a knowing grin) Enrique had plenty of stories to tell, only later did we discover he was the son of the first elected Mayor of Madrid after General Franco.
Our large collection of square little tables strung together was looking chaotic. Despite our waiters best efforts the food disappeared as it arrived leaving empty plates piled up in the middle for easy transportation below. Plates of squid, fish, octopus tentacles, horta (spinage type greens) shrimps and dolmades (rice wrapped in vine leaves) pass before our eyes and readily filled our stomachs, interspersed with the local red & white wine.
Our rooftop location would normally have given a grand panorama of Skala town; however sitting here at night bathed in our own pool of artificial light, only the sounds of the island reach us. Looking across the rooftops subtle shadows with the occasional streetlight can be seen.
The absence of nightlife outside our little world was the perfect location, the perfect antidote to our busy day. Only the occasional scooter could be heared resonating along a narrow alleyway. No neon lights, no discothèque music or even touristic bouzouki. A restrained life surrounded our happy taverna long into the evening.
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Tags: almira, apostle, architectural tour, fish restaurant, greek style, mezes, monastery, Patmos, peter sommer, raki, social occasion, St John, turkish gulet
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